Yamaguchi Shugetsu in Nara

Monday, Nov. 13, 2006

Our group left for Nara early this morning so that we could have a bit of time to see the World Heritage site of Todai-ji in Nara before meeting master maker of shakuhachi, Yamaguchi Shugetsu at Takanohara Station. We got to Nara Station at about 10 am and walked down a pleasant shopping street which led up to Nara Koen (Park) where the famous deer are and the Daibutsu is. We walked up a stone staircase which led to small shrine. We were surprised to see an elderly fellow playing shakuhachi within the small temple. Over his shirt and jacket he wore a kesa, a kind of bib, denoting one`s buddhist faith and practice. I recognized the pieces he played: Choshi, Hi Fu Mi Cho, and Kokuu. After his offering I introduced myself. His name is Sho Chikuho and he is a member of the Meian Organization in Kyoto where he learned his pieces. He said he`s terrible at music so he just plays honkyoku. On this day he was playing for the soul of his deceased wife. We took a few photos together and bid him farewell. It was very nice to meet another soul on the bamboo path.

On our way to the Daibutsuden, we stopped and listened to a lone shino-bue (Japanese horizontal folk flute) player playing the small subway before the entrance of the park. He shone with great sabishii-ness (melancholy) with a life-worn countenance, and pained expression, playing lonely Japanese melodies on a small stool. We all put some change in his hat which he accepted with a slight bow.

Visiting the Todaiji is always a great experience. It must have been truly an incredible experience for pilgrims and worshippers back height of 8th Nara. Contrasted with the rustic life of most of Japan, coming to Nara must have been truly mind-blowing as it still is today, even this day of high technological society. Emperor Shomu (724-729) founded Todaiji. The Daibutsuden is the largest wooden structure in the world today, which houses the colossal 16 meter high Daibutsu. But the structure is still 33% smaller than it when it was orginally built. Due to fires it was reduced in size, but it is still as magnificent as ever. One uncanny thing was that in front of the Daibutsuden was the exact same lantern with the shakuhachi-playing deva that was in front of Kongobuji and Okunoin on Koya-san! This is truly a sign that the shakuhachi spirits are with us!

We left Todaiji at noon and arrived at at Takanohara Station on the Kintetsu line exactly at 1 pm where Yamaguchi-san and his wife Tomoko, picked us up in two cars. We spent the entire afternoon playing Yamaguchi-san`s flutes and playing with Tomoko, his wife who is a master koto and shamisen player/teacher. We played Chidori, Rokudan, Kuro Kami, and Tsukigusa no Yume with her. Oliver Henry bought one of Yamaguchi`s beautiful 2.7 jinashi shakuhachis, and Matheus reserved a dark, lovely smoked 2.4. John Paul bought one of Yamaguchi`s new pvc shaks as well, a great 1.6.

Everyone left feeling very happy and energized. We had dinner at one of my favorite Izakaya Chains in Japan, Raku on the same street that we started out in the morning. We got back to the Ryokan at 9 pm.

Tomorrow is our meeting with the reclusive shakuhachi master, Taniguchi Yoshinobu on the Japan Sea side of Kyoto.

To be continued.....

Alcvin
www.bamboo-in.com
ramos@dccnet.com